Day 5 – Sunday 25 July 2010

Jūrmalciems to Liepaja 25km; 5 hours 45 minutes Weather overcast and windy

I am in Liepaja, Latvia's third largest city, and the place where I finished my east to west crossing of Latvia two years ago. In fact, much of today's walk should simply have followed the last day's walk in 2008.

I needed to buy water at Bernāti but overshot the town. I had walked along the beach from Jūrmalciems. The forest covers the dunes right up to the beach and virtually all development is hidden. There are houses right along this part of the coast, but the only indications are tracks over the dunes onto the beach.
I left the beach past Bernāti but walked on to Pērkone (along the main road) where I had the series of phone calls with Juris which he has referred to in his comment. I spent an hour or so at the Kafējnīca at the Pērkone camping ground, not only buying water and eating pancakes but also trying to connect to the internet through their WiFi.

Finally, I gave up and walked on to Liepaja along the beach.
Normally, the beaches would have been packed but there was little sun all day and the wind was strong and cold. There were a few brave swimmers and a number of para-surfers. At Liepaja, they were packing up the facilities from the Baltic Beach Party – stages, fun fair, tents – all set up on the sand at about the same spot where I was interviewed for local and national television in 2008.
Liepaja is a port and my accommodation tonight is not far from the kanāls where the boats (including quite large ships) dock. I am staying with Ilgvars and Velta in their 150-year-old house which apparently was originally connected with the brewery over the road.

Ilgvars and Ziedonis (our Riga host) went to school together in Liepaja and in 2008 Velta and Ilgvars were in the welcoming party when I arrived. Photos and the television coverage of the arrival are on the blog at www.walkacrosslatvia2008.blogspot.com.
Last night was a special night because of the generosity of Juris and Eva. Mark said in his comment that he was pleased I was to be tenting last night. I was also looking forward to the experience. The tent was set up and looked good and although there was a huge storm last night, it would have been cosy. I was really very happy and comfortable inside.

Tonight, Velta and Ilgvars have been warm and welcoming. I am clean, my clothes are freshly washed (they needed it) and I have been very well fed and bedded down. I spent a couple of hours sending blog text and photos to Juris. I think the sole reason I have been unable to send e-mails to Juris was because I didn't log in first to my gmail account. Sorry to all for my lack of techno-competence.
Ilgvars and Velta have also advised me on the route to Cirava tomorrow. I chose the quieter route through Kapsēde and Bebe (about 38km) rather than the 40km option through Dunalka. I will leave early.
I had a number of phone calls with Anita today. I appreciate her comments on the blog (and Jāna's) which I didn't read till tonight. Jāna and Lija went off to the summer school today. Anita has been working on Festival issues with important meetings arranged for the next couple of days. The critical issue of the moment is the design of the thongs which will be sold as one of the souvenirs at the Festival – what should be printed on the thongs; should the colour be bright red or a darker red? I include a photo I took this afternoon in Liepaja which might help the Festival Committee with their deliberations.